Salicylic Acid
The original beta-hydroxy acid. Oil-soluble, meaning it penetrates sebum and exfoliates inside the pore. Gold-standard for comedonal acne.
Lipophilic exfoliant that dissolves desmosomal bonds inside the pilosebaceous unit, unclogging pores and reducing comedones. Also anti-inflammatory via COX-2 inhibition.
- Unclogs pores
- Supports clearer skin
- Reduces blackheads
- Anti-inflammatory
- Penetrates oily skin
What the evidence supports.
- Oily
- Combination
- Acne-prone
- Aspirin allergy
- Pregnant (at high %)
Apply early in routine, toner/essence step.
Concentration range in well-formulated products: 0.5%–2%
Year-round; reduce frequency in winter for dehydrated skin.
Naturally occurs in willow bark, wintergreen, sweet birch.
- Recurrent comedones
- Persistent blackheads
0.5% in toners suits sensitive skin; 2% serums for active comedonal acne. Use 2–3× weekly minimum.
- Zander & Weisman 1992, 2% BHA reduced acne lesions 47% in 8 weeks
The research behind Salicylic Acid.
Every claim on this page traces to published research. Findings below are drawn from randomized trials and systematic reviews, each links to the study on PubMed.
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2020
Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 2020
Journal of Advanced Research, 2015
Dermato-Endocrinology, 2011
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3 studies from the Intelligence Vault that discuss Salicylic Acid.
- expert opinion · Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and VenereologyThe menstrual cycle and skin: dermatological manifestations and management
- expert opinion · International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceThe role of pH in skin care: cleanser pH, exfoliant pH, and barrier impact
- expert opinion · Journal of Cosmetic DermatologySkin cycling: rationale and practical application of intermittent active use