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methodologyExpert Opinionprofessional1 min read

The role of pH in skin care: cleanser pH, exfoliant pH, and barrier impact

Authors · Lambers H, Piessens S, Bloem A
Journal · International Journal of Cosmetic Science · September 2006
What this means for you

The plain-language read

Stratum corneum pH (4. 5) maintains barrier integrity, antimicrobial defense, and enzyme kinetics. Alkaline cleansers (pH 9–10) disrupt this acid mantle for up to 6 hours.

Key findings
  • Skin pH 4.5–5.5 is the operational range
  • Alkaline cleansers disrupt barrier for up to 6 hours
  • Active bioavailability is pH-dependent
  • pH on label is more informative than concentration alone
Practical note

Use pH-balanced cleansers (4.5–6.5). For AHA/BHA exfoliants, verify pH on label — pH > 4 substantially reduces efficacy regardless of concentration.

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What this means for your routine

glycolic acidPM routine

If you're targeting barrier dysfunction, this research supports adding glycolic acid to your PM routine.

salicylic acidAM/PM routine

If you're targeting barrier dysfunction, this research supports adding salicylic acid to your AM/PM routine.

Translated from this study's findings, not a personal prescription. Pair with your existing protocol and your practitioner's guidance.

Technical Summary, For Professional Reference

Clinical context

Stratum corneum pH 4.5–5.5 is critical for barrier integrity, antimicrobial defense, and serine protease regulation. Alkaline cleansers (pH 9–10) disrupt acid mantle for up to 6h. Acid pH cleansers preserve barrier. Formulation pH determines active bioavailability: AHAs pH 3–4, vitamin C pH <3.5, retinoids pH 5–6.

Full abstract

Stratum corneum pH (4.5–5.5) maintains barrier integrity, antimicrobial defense, and enzyme kinetics. Alkaline cleansers (pH 9–10) disrupt this acid mantle for up to 6 hours. Acid pH cleansers (pH 4.5–5.5) preserve barrier function. AHA and BHA exfoliants require pH 3–4 for free-acid bioavailability. Vitamin C requires pH < 3.5.

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This information is for educational purposes only and is not medical advice. Individual results vary. Consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare professional for medical concerns. Full disclaimer →