The plain-language read
Stratum corneum pH (4. 5) maintains barrier integrity, antimicrobial defense, and enzyme kinetics. Alkaline cleansers (pH 9–10) disrupt this acid mantle for up to 6 hours.
- Skin pH 4.5–5.5 is the operational range
- Alkaline cleansers disrupt barrier for up to 6 hours
- Active bioavailability is pH-dependent
- pH on label is more informative than concentration alone
Use pH-balanced cleansers (4.5–6.5). For AHA/BHA exfoliants, verify pH on label — pH > 4 substantially reduces efficacy regardless of concentration.
What this means for your routine
If you're targeting barrier dysfunction, this research supports adding glycolic acid to your PM routine.
If you're targeting barrier dysfunction, this research supports adding salicylic acid to your AM/PM routine.
Translated from this study's findings, not a personal prescription. Pair with your existing protocol and your practitioner's guidance.
Technical Summary, For Professional Reference
Clinical context
Stratum corneum pH 4.5–5.5 is critical for barrier integrity, antimicrobial defense, and serine protease regulation. Alkaline cleansers (pH 9–10) disrupt acid mantle for up to 6h. Acid pH cleansers preserve barrier. Formulation pH determines active bioavailability: AHAs pH 3–4, vitamin C pH <3.5, retinoids pH 5–6.
Full abstract→
Stratum corneum pH (4.5–5.5) maintains barrier integrity, antimicrobial defense, and enzyme kinetics. Alkaline cleansers (pH 9–10) disrupt this acid mantle for up to 6 hours. Acid pH cleansers (pH 4.5–5.5) preserve barrier function. AHA and BHA exfoliants require pH 3–4 for free-acid bioavailability. Vitamin C requires pH < 3.5.
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