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Glycolic Acid

INCI: Glycolic Acid
Also known as: AHA, Hydroxyacetic Acid
ExfoliantsexfoliantsyntheticStrong evidencePregnancy safe
86
Skinlumis Rating
Comedogenic
0/5
Irritancy
4/5
Best applied
PM
Effective range
5%–10%
How It Works

The smallest alpha-hydroxy acid molecule, derived from sugar cane. Penetrates deeply and resurfaces aggressively, also stimulates dermal collagen at higher concentrations.

Loosens corneodesmosomes in the stratum corneum, accelerating desquamation. At higher % stimulates dermal collagen via fibroblast activation.

pH Range
3.0–4.0
Benefits
  • Resurfaces skin
  • Brightens dullness
  • Reduces fine lines
  • Fades PIH
  • Stimulates collagen
Proven For

What the evidence supports.

DullnessPhotoagingHyperpigmentationTexture
Best For
  • Normal
  • Oily
  • Combination
  • Mature
Avoid If
  • Sensitive skin
  • Compromised barrier
  • Active rosacea
Layering Order
3/10

Apply early in routine, toner/essence step.

Max Safe Concentration
70% peel (professional)

Concentration range in well-formulated products: 5%–10%

Seasonal Use

Best autumn/winter; reduce frequency in high-UV summer.

Nutrition Connection

Found naturally in sugar cane juice and unripe grapes.

Skin Signals When You Need It
  • Build-up of dull, rough texture
For Estheticians & Professionals

8–10% leave-on 2–3× weekly is the resilient-skin sweet spot. Always pair with SPF for at least 7 days post-peel.

Notable Research
  • Bernstein et al. 2001, 12-week 8% glycolic improved photodamage
  • Newman et al. 1996, glycolic increased dermal mucopolysaccharides
Clinical Evidence

The research behind Glycolic Acid.

4 peer-reviewed studies

Every claim on this page traces to published research. Findings below are drawn from randomized trials and systematic reviews, each links to the study on PubMed.

Systematic Review
Oral collagen peptides at 2.5-10g daily significantly improved skin elasticity and reduced wrinkle depth after 8-12 weeks across 11 RCTs.
Choi FD, Sung CT, Juhasz MLW, Mesinkovska NA
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2019
View Study →
Systematic Review
Estrogen deficiency following menopause causes 30% reduction in skin collagen within the first 5 years.
Wilkinson HN, Hardman MJ
Maturitas, 2017
View Study →
Systematic Review
Chronic psychological stress elevates cortisol, accelerating skin aging through collagen degradation and barrier disruption.
Chen Y, Lyga J
Inflammation and Allergy Drug Targets, 2014
View Study →
Randomized Controlled Trial
Nano-hyaluronic acid significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity after 8 weeks.
Jegasothy SM, Zabolotniaia V, Bielfeldt S
Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2014
View Study →
Pairs Well With
Hyaluronic AcidCeramide NPNiacinamide
Conflicts With
RetinolVitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)Benzoyl Peroxide
Your Skin Compatibility

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The science behind Glycolic Acid

2 studies from the Intelligence Vault that discuss Glycolic Acid.

Browse the Vault →