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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD)

INCI: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Also known as: THD Ascorbate, ATIP, VC-IP
Vitamin CantioxidantsyntheticModerate evidencePregnancy safe
87
Skinlumis Rating
Comedogenic
1/5
Irritancy
0/5
Best applied
Both
Effective range
1%–10%
How It Works

An oil-soluble Vitamin C ester that penetrates deeper into the dermis than water-soluble forms. The premium 'next-generation' Vitamin C used in luxury formulations.

Lipophilic; partitions readily through stratum corneum lipids, then is hydrolysed to free ascorbic acid in deeper layers. Bypasses the pH constraints of LAA.

pH Range
5.0–7.0
Benefits
  • Deep dermal penetration
  • Photostable
  • Non-irritating
  • Stimulates collagen
  • Excellent in anhydrous formulas
Proven For

What the evidence supports.

PhotoagingHyperpigmentationFine lines
Best For
  • Dry
  • Mature
  • Sensitive
  • Normal
Avoid If

No notable contraindications reported.

Layering Order
4/10

Mid-routine serum or treatment step.

Max Safe Concentration
10%

Concentration range in well-formulated products: 1%–10%

Seasonal Use

Year-round; compatible with retinoids unlike LAA.

Nutrition Connection

Same as LAA.

Skin Signals When You Need It
  • Loss of dermal firmness
For Estheticians & Professionals

The only Vitamin C derivative that comfortably layers with retinoids in the PM routine.

Notable Research
  • Ochiai et al. 2006, THD ascorbate yielded sustained ascorbic acid levels in dermis
Clinical Evidence

The research behind Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD).

4 peer-reviewed studies

Every claim on this page traces to published research. Findings below are drawn from randomized trials and systematic reviews, each links to the study on PubMed.

Randomized Controlled Trial
Daily sunscreen use reduced photoaging markers by 24% over 4.5 years compared to discretionary use.
Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC
Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013
View Study →
Randomized Controlled Trial
Vitamin C showed comparable efficacy to hydroquinone for melasma treatment.
Espinal-Perez LE, Moncada B, Castanedo-Cazares JP
International Journal of Dermatology, 2004
View Study →
Randomized Controlled Trial
Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, reducing hyperpigmentation by up to 35%.
Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J et al.
British Journal of Dermatology, 2002
View Study →
Randomized Controlled Trial
Azelaic acid comparable to hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation with superior safety across all Fitzpatrick types.
Balina LM, Graupe K
International Journal of Dermatology, 1991
View Study →
Pairs Well With
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)SqualaneFerulic AcidRetinol
Conflicts With

No flagged conflicts. Still, patch-test new actives.

Your Skin Compatibility

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