Pycnogenol

INCI: Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Also known as: French maritime pine bark

AntioxidantsantioxidantbotanicalModerate evidencePregnancy safe

Skinlumis Rating

Comedogenic

0/5

Irritancy

0/5

Best applied

Both

Effective range

0.1%–1%

How It Works

A standardised pine bark extract rich in procyanidins. One of the few botanicals with strong clinical data for melasma and chronic venous insufficiency.

Procyanidins inhibit MMPs, scavenge ROS, and reduce inflammatory cytokines.

pH Range

4.0–6.5

Benefits

Reduces melasma
Anti-inflammatory
Photoprotective
Antioxidant

Proven For

What the evidence supports.

MelasmaPhotoagingInflammation

Best For

All skin types

Avoid If

No notable contraindications reported.

Layering Order

4/10

Mid-routine serum or treatment step.

Max Safe Concentration

Concentration range in well-formulated products: 0.1%–1%

Seasonal Use

Year-round.

Nutrition Connection

Oral pycnogenol supplements clinically tested for melasma.

Skin Signals When You Need It

No specific deficiency signals tracked for this ingredient.

For Estheticians & Professionals

Pair oral + topical pycnogenol for stubborn melasma cases.

Clinical Evidence

The research behind Pycnogenol.

4 peer-reviewed studies

Every claim on this page traces to published research. Findings below are drawn from randomized trials and systematic reviews, each links to the study on PubMed.

Randomized Controlled Trial

Vitamin C showed comparable efficacy to hydroquinone for melasma treatment.

Espinal-Perez LE, Moncada B, Castanedo-Cazares JP
International Journal of Dermatology, 2004

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Randomized Controlled Trial

Niacinamide inhibits melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, reducing hyperpigmentation by up to 35%.

Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J et al.
British Journal of Dermatology, 2002

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Randomized Controlled Trial

Azelaic acid comparable to hydroquinone for hyperpigmentation with superior safety across all Fitzpatrick types.

Balina LM, Graupe K
International Journal of Dermatology, 1991

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Randomized Controlled Trial

Daily sunscreen use reduced photoaging markers by 24% over 4.5 years compared to discretionary use.

Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC
Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013

View Study →

Pairs Well With

Vitamin CTranexamic Acid

Conflicts With

No flagged conflicts. Still, patch-test new actives.

Your Skin Compatibility